Hi everyone , so this the last stage of face casting to make a positive to sculpt character designs to for prosthetic.So lets get started:
Plaster enough for 2-3 batches
5-6 foot long sections of Mod-Rock
Wax Parting Agent
2 pieces Scrim 12″ x 12″
Power hand drill with 1/2″ drill attachment
Access to a well ventilated area or extractor fan
Wooden board approximately 12″ x 12″ in size.
Metal sculpting tools and files suitable for plaster
2 Mixing bowl
2 Paper cups
Dust clay wooden block with plaster dust so that when you lift it off it won’t stick to the board .
Slice off 3-4 pices of 4 inches thick of clay slabs off the block of clay using the cheese wire and place on the board and overlap each piece
Smash the clay down flat into the corners ,this takes some force .Then take the cheese wire and dragged it under the clay until you reached the end of the board , then removed the top layer of clay which left us with a smooth and even thick strip of clay, and remove from the board.
Place your face cast on to a wooden board and draw a circle 2 – 3 inches around it. This acts as a guide when building your wall
Soak face cast in a bowl of cold water (only enough to cover the sides of the mask) this makes sure the new plaster base you are going to set your face into will adder together , they wouldn’t do so if the face cast was dry .
Slice the piece of clay into 2-2 ½ inches wide to create a clay wall around your face cast. Blend out the bottom edges to seal the clay to the board to prevent leakageCut3-4 foot long sections of Modrock plaster bandage dip in a bowl of warm water and remove excess water then wrap around the clay wall . This will give it support and strength to the clay wall when the plaster is poured in.
Inside of the clay wall paint a thin layer wax loosening agent onto the board to prevent plaster form sticking when you remove your face cast .
Pre-cut two pieces of scrim about the size of the wooden board
Mix up plaster the plaster the same way as before but, make it up a little thicken this time .
Tip a little plaster into the walls you have just made, add both pieces of scrim and pat down into the plaster so that all edges have been covered and that nothing is hanging over.Top up with the rest of the plaster but not right to the top, making sure that no scrim is showing – shake the board slightly make sure there are no air bubbles in the plaster and that t is level .and leave for a few minutes so it starts to set. Once the plaster is slightly setting at the bottom Place the soaked face cast into the in the center of the plaster and leave to completely set.
If there are some small gaps under the chin or on the forehead ,These need to be filled as this would cause a lot of problems later when you are creating prosthetics . To fill in the gaps used a thicker consistency of plaster and smoothed it out with s small tool but it’s easier with your fingers. then leave the cast to set for a further 30-40 minutes. Once set remove the clay and modrock wall and remove from wood base
So you need to now clean up your cast before moving to the next stage, like on my cast there there were a lot of excess plaster around my nose . So by using some sculpting tools and files i was able to remove them , if i was to leave them on any prosthetic i cast off this positive wouldn’t fit my face properly.You also need to file around the edges of the base as they can be sharp .
Then drill four holes, two on each side which will be used for guidance later on in the process of prosthetics making, be careful with this step maybe get some supervision when using a hand drill .
lastly Apply a few layers of shellac all over the cast until shiny, and leave to dry overnight ,Once the shellac is dry you are then ready to sculpt
Thanks for reading