Hi everyone , so this week we got down to sculpting out prosthetic i have decided to sculpt a zombie , inspired from the program the walking dead . My concept is that we have fallen into the zombie apocalypse and the only cure/ prevention of the condition spreading is to stop the zombies form biting people . So in attempt to stop the spread the government and armed forces have started to round up the zombies and sewing up there mouths and in some extreme cases pulling out there teeth as well as a prevention until a cure is found . these are some inspiration pictures i have found :
To sculpt my design I used Plasterline which I found really difficult to work with at first. It did get easier the warmer it was and the more I practiced. I didn’t want to sculpt in any stitches as I wanted to add them in at a later stage. Hear is a picture of my final sculpt :
Making a Silicone Prosthetic
Products/tools needed :
X2 strips of Mod rock
X2, 12″ by 12″ of Scrim
X3 Mixing bowl
Access to water
Flat wooden board
Silicone part A, B and a accelerate
1/2 inch paint brushes
• began by building a clay wall similarly to before however this time it was twice as tall. Add a layer of Mod-Roc to provide more strength like in previous steps .
• Take cheap 1/2inch brush to paste a thin layer of petroleum jelly or Vaseline all over the exposed plaster and the face cast base. This step makes it easier to separate the top and the bottom part of the mould.
• take some clay to fill in any parts of the cast that may catch on the top of the mould like the nostrils and around the eyes or chin.
• mix up a batch a plaster, paint a thin layer of plaster over the top of the sculpture to catch all the detail.
• Take two pieces of scrim , place into the cast and poured a little more plaster onto the cast and allowed it to dry for a few minutes. This is to add strength.
• Then poured some more plaster over the top to ensure none of the scrim was visible. We then left it to dry for 1 hour to ensure it was fully set.
• Once set removed the clay and Mod-Roc wall and gently prise the two sections apart using chisel
• file away any rough edges of the plaster with a metal file. This is not only for neatness by for health and safety reasons.
• clean out any of the Plasterline out of the cast . A really helpful trick my tutor showed me was to use a piece of left over scrim to rub away any of the Plasterline that was taking forever to come away from the cast.
• Take the top part of the cast and soak it water for around 10 minutes. This is so the silicone doesn’t absorb into the open pours of the plaster. once soaked patted it dry ready for the next step.
• Apply a very light coat of petroleum jelly to act as a releasing agent.
• As this has to be done quickly it is always best to have everything you need lay out ready to start. This can be quite messy so its best to wear a pair of plastic gloves .
• Place the empty plastic bowl onto the scales making sure it is still on 0 (This is so we don’t include the weight of the bowl as the -measurements have to be accurate in order to get a good batch of silicon)
• Add 500grams of part A of the rubber silicone
• Add 50grams of part B (Silicone catalyst)
• Add Desired silicone colour a little at a time
• Mix the pigment in thoroughly to ensure an even colour throughout the silicone
• Add 5grams of the accelerant. This allows the silicone to set much quicker cutting the waiting time down dramatically.
• Mix well
• Once mixed thoroughly then pour into the top part of the mould its better to balance your mould on something like a stool then its an easy height and stable enough to pour your silicone into .
• Once you are happy with the desired about of silicone immediately sandwich the two parts of the moulds together using the drilled dents as a guide to line it up correctly. You may need to use a clamp at this stage to tighten the two parts together.
• Allow any excess silicone to drain out. This is a good sign, it shows that the mould is completely filled.
• Then leave to dry completely for around 30-45 minutes. A good way to tell if it is complete set is to pour a small amount of silicone on the top of the moulds as this will act as a visible guide.
• Once the silicone is completely use a chisel to gently prise open the mould to reveal our silicone prosthetic. The next stages will be cutting it down to size, applying and painting.
Reflections / Evaluation:
Overall I enjoyed this part of the process, I felt like I had a really productive day in the studio I now feel confident in my concept and sculpting abilities after having the chance to practice with the Plasterline at home before sculpting my final design. here is some of my practice sculpts :
I didn’t particularly find the casting process difficult as my tutor went through the process step by step , and i think am confident enough with this procedure that i could successful carry it out again on my own . I would however like to experiment in future with the colouring that i added to the silicone to see if i could mix a more realistic flesh colour . I am a little nervous about the cutting, blending and applying the prosthetic as I have never worked with silicone before. And i want to find a way of successfully blending out the edges , as it always annoys me when you can see the edges of a prosthetic and i want to avoid this at all costs . I am also looking into the best paints and method for silicone as i know you can produce the best prosthetic and then it can be ruined by a bad paint job , so i am going to research into the best paints for silicone and zombie makeup .
Thanks for reading i know it was a long blog post this week 🙂