Fashion editorial shoot with savannah rose digital imagery

So over the past few months I have been working towards building a professional portfolio and to do this i have been trying to collaborate with newmourouse photographers on different projects . One of the photographers i have collaborated with is Georgian Preston the owner of savannah rose digital imagery and retouching. She is a really good photographer and retoucher so I was really happy to work with her she also has edited my final images really well so I a happy from the results from the shoot . She is really professional and easy to work with so if you want to look at her other work or contact her hear is a link to her professional Facebook page :

I learnt alto from this shoot about lighting and composition of a studio set up I was truly enlightened. I leant how different back drops can effect lighting and how positioning a light that reflects off the back drop gives the photo some dimension . Everything i learnt from this shoot can be transferable into my own photography when I take pictures of my make-up looks and experiments . Hear are some pictures from behind the scenes of the shoot :
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On this work experience/job I was working on two photo shoots for the day one been a creative look and another an inspired 1960s make-up and hair .
So hear are the final images from the day :
Thankyou for reading
bex 🙂



Products and equipment needed :
– x1 empty 2 litter bottle
– Scissors
– Vaseline (Not a necessity)
– Access to water
– Power drill
– Squirrel piece to fit onto drill
– x2 Flexible bucket
– Alginate (roughly one and a half bags)
– Plaster
– Flexible bowl
– Metal filing tool

Method :

• First cut the top off a 2 litter bottle using a pair of shape scissors. Make sure there is no sharp pointy bits as this could scratch our models arm during casting.
• Next mix a batch of alginate. As this is a large batch use a flexible bucket and a power drill with a squirrel mechanism attached to the end to mix it better you must mix it this way as you only have three minutes working time before the mix goes off. To make sure you dont make too much alginate measure the amount by filling up the cut bottle leaving 1-2 inches for the plaster .
• Make sure the water is tepid and not hot as this would boost the curing time giving us a shorter working time. Added the water to the bucket and gradually sprinkled in the alginate whilst drilling. Once the mixture is similar to a lumpy custard texture it is ready to pour.
• Asked your model to dangle her hand comfortably into the bottle so you are able to pour it down one side to eliminate bubbles. Get them to wriggled their hand ever so slightly to get rid of any air bubbles attached to their hands. The alginate set pretty quickly however we left it for a further 5 minutes to ensure it was completely vulcanized.

GOOD TO KNOW : If your model has dry skin or suffers from eczema you can add a light layer of petroleum jelly to the hand and wrist prior to mixing the alginate, this may trap extra air bubbles however.

• Once cured, ask your model to wriggle their fingers to allow air into the mould. This is a really important stage as the air needs to gradually work its way down the cast, If you didn’t do this the fingers would suction together resulting in tears in the alginate.
Know mix up a batch of plaster to pour into the hand cast (the negative) to make the positive. To do this began by adding a cup of cold water to a plastic (easy bendable) mixing bowl then gradually sieved handfuls of plaster on top of the water until the surface looked like wet cracked sand. We then left it to stand for a few seconds and then mixed it with our hands to make sure there were no lumps or air bubbles as this will affect the quality of the positive. (The plaster should be of a similar consistency to double cream).
• Don’t pour all the plaster in at first as you want to do a light coating first to make sure we got as much of the detail caught by the alginate. To do this we poured plaster into the finger tips only and then picked up the mould and rolled the plaster around to make sure all the edges we covered .Once you have done that slowly filled up the rest of the mould. continue to fill the mould up to the top to create a base so the hand could stand up once set.
• then leave the plaster to cure for around half an hour. (If possible leave for longer as the plaster was still a little damp and fragile when we took it out). Once set then began to remove the negative.
gently cut away the cup being careful not to dig the scissors into the alginate underneath.
• Once the plastic bottle has been removed then begin to chip away at the alginate piece by piece with a wooden tool. make sure your really careful when doing this as we don’t want to damage the plaster as this will eliminate vital details if scratched .
• Once all the alginate it removed you then have your positive! If there is any air bubbles or imperfections they can easily be filed down gently with a metal tool. When filing away imperfections it is important that you try to follow the natural lines in the skin

Evaluation / Reflection:
Overall I thought the process was quite straight forward . If I was to do this process again I would perhaps make sure our model has all her fingers separated as my model little finger was touching her ring finger. However it is hard to judge the positioning of your hand when you cannot see it whilst it is submerged . A way of overcoming this problem is to use a larger container so our model doesn’t have to be so careful not to touch the edges of the bottle.
Thanks for reading


Hi everyone, so this post is all about my final assessment for special effects this semester, so i will be giving an overview of the processes and materials i used to create my final look .
During this semester we were asked to carry out several processes of face casting and sculpting in order to create a custom fit silicone prosthetic piece. After researching face prosthetic i decided to create a zombie look , so that i could compare my progress through my special effects work from the zombie look i created on a work experience in my first year of studies . But I didn’t want to simply copy the idea of a simple and classic zombie look so I decided to change my characters story and add the element of her teeth been pulled out and her mouth sewn up . I also wanted to research into how the skin decomposed and colour chance once the body dies so that i could get a realistic overall final look . Once I was happy with my character profile and research into the anatomy of the face I then sculpted my design, and carried out the rest of the casting process to create my prosthetic piece . I was initially pleased with how the piece came out but I noticed that my blended and smoothed out edges that I had initially sculpted were useless , as the cast come out as a full face and did not separate the two separate pieces. To rectify this in the future i will create a clay barrier around my sculpted pieces allowing the silicone to drain evenly creating a thinner edge for me to blend away on the skin. However i did not know this until i have made my prosthetic piece. Because of my prosthetic coming out as a full face piece, I had to cut the two pieces out with scissors and work on blending the edges directly on the face.
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Once my prosthetic was prepped and cut to size I was ready to begin. I adhered the prosthetic to the skin using pros-aide which I applied directly onto the skin and onto the back of the prosthetic leaving out the edges. It stayed in place really well allowing me to then glue down the edges separately to get a better fit. Although the thicker sections of the edge of my pieces did take time and patents to stick down. And the section nearest the mouth did restrict some movement of the mouth that i would have to rethink the design or product i was to do this again. Once the pieces were glued onto the face securely I then used Cabosil which I had previously mixed with Pros-aide in the special effects studio. Whilst mixing the Cabosil i have to take precautions as cabosil is very harmful to the lungs so i had to wear a respirator to prevent the light fibres from entering my lungs and mix the two products under an extractor fan . ones the products were mixed the cabosil is not as harmful so i didn’t have to wear any PPE when applying it to the skin . I then used a metal spatula to smooth it over the edges of my prosthetic. This worked really well however I found I had to reapply the product to some places as the Cabosil does shrinks whilst it dry’s. Once that had completely dried I was then able to start applying paint over the top to further blend the edges. As I only have greasepaints in my kit I used a small amount of castor oil to make the greasepaints easier to work with as it allows the paint to glide smoothly over the silicone easily almost like the rubber mask paint. I also used Skin Illustrators to give the effect of different skin tones. I used a stippling and splashing technique to give a variation of tones to the decaying skin This method was really effective and made the piece look more realistic.
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I also created a stitched up mouth as could not make a prosthetic piece around the mouth to sew onto as this would completely restrict movement and breathing , I decided the best method was to pre make the stiches and stick them to the edges of the mouth using spirit gum . I think the final look of the mouth did show the stiches in a realistic manner that was comfortable for my model .
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Overall I am a very happy with my first attempt at applying a large facial prosthetic piece. I feel that by overcoming the obstacle of the thick edge to the prosthetics, it means that i have learnt more from this experience. And that if anything g like this happened whilst i was in industry i now have the skills to rectify the situation , whereas if this project had gone smoothly i would not have learnt as much . If I was to do this again I would make my prosthetic out platinum silicone encased in Glatzan (cap plastic) to make it easier to blend onto the skin thus creating a more realistic effect. I would also create a clay boarder around my sculpt and clamp my cast tighter to ensure thinner edges. Although this piece is probably not to industry standard is my first attempt and i am still learning . So overall i am very pleased with the final look . Hear are some final images of my zombie complete look :
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Thankyou for taking the time to read my blog
Bex 🙂

English rose Location Photo Shoot

HI everyone, i have recently signed myself up to a networking sight called model mehem where i can look for local and national makeup jobs like photo shoots and fashion shows. Websites like these are a great way to start networking with local models, photographers , stylists and clothes designers . Over the past month i have been talking to several photographers who have contacted me to collaborate on some photo shoots with them so it has been quite an exciting time for me . But due to my work load with university and the same with some of the photographers we have decided to collaborate in the new year when we all have more time . But i have been able to collaborate with one photographer , last few weeks for some shoots , lil autum is a local photographer that contacted me through this sight for a shoot based on an English rose . We emailed and discussed what she wanted me to do with the makeup , we met up on the day with the two models in Huddersfield in the .. park . we had to do the makeup outside that was a new experience for me but i didn’t find it difficult , i actually enjoyed been outside in the park it was quite inspiring . And after been cooped up at uni doing work for the past few weeks it was a breath of fresh air that needed to reboot me and my passion for my degree . We found a bench and a good spot with some good light so i could do the makeup , the only problem was having my kit on the floor and i had to keep it all my makeup in my case so it got messed up and sometimes difficult to find thing but it wasn’t anything that i could not solve and work around . Anyway i am hopefully getting a new makeup case in the new year that will be better for working on locations . We then packed up and walked around the park for some locations for her to shoot at, I can say it was one of the most beautiful and well-kept parks i have ever been in it had some stunning features like some Victorian style fountains and a beautiful Victorian green house where there was a coffee shop . I was really pleased with the outcome of the shoot and we got some great pictures, i am still waiting for the full edited photos So i will upload them as so as i get them back from the photographer
Thankyou for taking the time to read my blog
Bex 🙂

Second Year Hear I Come!

Im back, i made it to second year 🙂
Hi guys i back after a nice long summer break, and i raring to get stuck into my second year at university. That means more blogging 🙂 so over the past few weeks i have just been trying to get my head around all my assignment briefs and moving back to uni but now I’m all set to start work and bogging .
This semester i will be posting all about life casting and postiche, I’m so excited to get stuck in i finally get to do life casting and to add to my excitement we are getting taught life casting by someone who is actually working in this part of the industry , Martin Hanson he is one of the sculptors that helps produce the wax works a madame tussaudst. For media makeup we are doing facial hair and postiche so keep an eye out for a lot of posts on facial hair , hair extensions , wigs ,and knotting.
Thanks for reading

Bald caps using cap plastic

Hi everyone so as part of my special effects final assessment i have to make and apply a bald cap but i have to create a character that incorporated a bald head . I found making my bald cap very tedious and there is a lot of waiting around for each layer of cap plastic (but i have found out you can also use liquid latex), i also had to make sure i was in a well-ventilated room as cap plastic has a very strong smell to it and without ventilating the fumes it can be harmful to people’s health .
i was also shown how to measure someone for a bald cap by using Clingfilm and sellotape and then marking where the hair line would be and where i would want the bald cap to finish on the back of the neck. I have yet to be shown how to translate these measurements to create a bald cap to specifically fit someone . So instead i created a bald cap using a plastic head and painting the cap plastic on . I had to paint on 8 layers all with intervals of around 10 minutes to enable the layers to dry , i also had to paint layers first in back to front motion and then the next layer from side to side and so on , whilst powdering in-between . The trick is to paint it in a striped motion so there is an even coverage . Hear are some pictures from the process and the final product:
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I did learn a lot from this as beforehand i had no idea how long , how much work goes into creating a bald cap and the skill involved . I am happy with my first attempt and it is defiantly good enough to use in my assessment . In future i will have to practice how to get an even coverage as some of my stripes overlapped on layers and this built up to make the bald cap uneven in places and causing week spots so i will have to be carful when i apply it to my model . So keep in tune my final look will be up around the 3rd May when i complete my assessment
thanks for reading

hi all

Hi im bex ,i am studying at bradford college doing foundation degree in makeup artistry and special makeup effects . On this blog i will be posting the good , bad and the ugly of all my projects . I will also be including posts about any work experience i do .