1920s finger waves

So over this next semester in media make-up i am building up a portfolio of makeup to the specific sector of makeup i want to work in . For me i am unsure  so i am creating a broad portfolio including all my skills in makeup and hair . I am creating a specific section for hair and specifically hair through the eras . The eras i am including are

  • 1920s
  • male Edwardian  ( hand knotted moustache )
  • 1970s
  • 1940s

So for this post i am reflecting on my experiments of creating the 1920s finger wave . I researched the history of this and watches several on-line tutorials before even tempting this style . I did look very challenging but i wanted ton have a go at creating it . I decided to practice also on a hairdressing head so that i can spend my time on practising  , as i am sure if i used someone they would properly get board  after a few hours .  i did find it very difficult to do this style and i have practices over several lessons and in my spare time  so far and i am slowly  getting the hand of it . But i am finding it very difficult to get to grips with this style . hear are a few images of my practice rounds . I have realised i will need to practice this alto more before i attempt to include it i my portfolio.

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Thanks for reading

bex 🙂


The Mill work experiences

So i have been fortunat enough to work with the makeup team behind the channel four program the mill . If you want to read about the back story of this program hear is a link :


I was  so excited  for the work experience as period drama is what love to watch, and hopefully its where my careerer will lead me in the future. As I watched the first series last year on channel four i already knew what story behind the mill was , but i also did a bit more research just to be fully preprepared for the day . So on the day i had to be there for 6:30am as this is when the cast start in makeup ready to be on set for 7:30 so it was a really early start . As this was my first day ever on set of a tv production i helped sort paper work out for the characters continuity , make drinks for everyone , cleaned up the work stations and brushes ready to be used next time . helped carry equipment and general extra pair of hands around the makeup truck . I was just happy to be there and experience the team at work and see what happens . I was also fortunate enough to help out with dirtying down the background cast , whenever they needed touch ups on set . As it is based in a cotton mill certain scenes  also needed the cast to have cotton dust in there hair so i helped do this and remove it . So i was really happy that i was able to help out with the makeup . I learnt so much in just one day and by the end of it all i was on such a high ,so hear are some pointers that i learnt from this experience :

  • set etiquette
  • How to act around the cast
  • How to read a call sheet
  •  protocol and hierarchy of the makeup department and full crew
  • organisation skills
  •  time management
  •  team work
  • how to maintain continuity

There was so much to learn about been on set it was very overwhelming but i really enjoyed my time on the mill . For me it has confirmed that television make-up is where i want to my career to be . I also learnt i really need to learn how to drive soon as i need to be able to get to any location at any time , as i needed to be on set at 6;30am it was really hard to get there by public transport .Also by talking to the makeup artists on set i have learnt i really need to  take a course in hair dressing as jobs in this industry require you to have both hair and makeup skills . So i have alto to learn off of set too . Over all i think i did well for my first day on set and i have been asked back by the makeup department for a  few extra day to help out so i am so happy that i can go back and learn some more .

Thanks for reading

bex 🙂

final stage of fibreglass mould making

Hi everyone so hear is the last stage of the ,mould making before we can start running it in foam latex and then platinum silicone .


  • Once the sculpt is protected with several layers of releasing agent you can start the final fiberglass process                                          work experinace photos 409
  • Begin by laying out some plastic sheeting to protect your work area .
  • Next cut up  10-15 small squares of fibre glass tissue in preparation for the next step
  • Mix up half a cup of gel coat with two measures of  catalyst (catalyst is added to speed up the vulcanisation process ).                   DSCF0180DSCF0179
  • Once mixed thoroughly paint the gel coat over the sculpt make sure you cover all the sculpt to pick up all the detail .
  • Then wait for it to cure until it is tacky to touch it  will take from 1hr-2hr depending on the temperature of the room
  •  The next step is to apply a coat of laminating resin over the cured gel coat. This will allow the fibreglass tissue to adhere to the gel coat and prevent any separation of the two layers . Then coat each square of fibre glass tissue with resin and apply it over the gel coat . Make sure you overlap each square to strengthen the layer .
  • As always leave it for 20 minutes and cut any sharp  edges around the mould .
  • After this layer is dry (wait 1hr between layers) repeat the process twice again but with fiberglass matting .
  • The next step is to drill holes through both parts of the mould to allow washers and screws to be used as a way of closing and clamping the mould shut. This is important as the mould needs to be tightly closed to ensure the edges set  thin . Make sure you don’t drill the holes through the keys in the mould .
  • After the holes are drilled the mould can then be separated and clean . Be patient as carefully when opening the mould  as you don’t want to damage anything .
  • Now clean out the Plasterline from the mould in preparation for running foam latex . I also use lighter fluid to further clean the mould as this dissolves the Plasterline easily.                                                                                                                                                              work experinace photos 442

Thanks for reading

Bex 🙂


As I have had quite a lot of practice with fiberglass I now feel confident enough with this process.. Overall I am very happy with quality of the moulds i have created . But i will really see how good they are when we start running them for foam latex .

Student photography shoot

Hi everyone i though i would just update you all on a make-up work experience/job i did this week at Wakefield collage for the photographer Catherine Brown . Hear is a link to her professional Facebook page if you want to have a look at her work and style of photography :


So for this shoot I was creating a make-up look based around the 1950s and the vintage look and style . I really enjoyed this soot as it just felt fun and light hearted. So hear are some final images from the shoot :

Thanks for reading
Bex 🙂

Fashion editorial shoot with savannah rose digital imagery

So over the past few months I have been working towards building a professional portfolio and to do this i have been trying to collaborate with newmourouse photographers on different projects . One of the photographers i have collaborated with is Georgian Preston the owner of savannah rose digital imagery and retouching. She is a really good photographer and retoucher so I was really happy to work with her she also has edited my final images really well so I a happy from the results from the shoot . She is really professional and easy to work with so if you want to look at her other work or contact her hear is a link to her professional Facebook page :


I learnt alto from this shoot about lighting and composition of a studio set up I was truly enlightened. I leant how different back drops can effect lighting and how positioning a light that reflects off the back drop gives the photo some dimension . Everything i learnt from this shoot can be transferable into my own photography when I take pictures of my make-up looks and experiments . Hear are some pictures from behind the scenes of the shoot :
work experinace photos 359work experinace photos 376work experinace photos 377work experinace photos 361work experinace photos 378work experinace photos 360

On this work experience/job I was working on two photo shoots for the day one been a creative look and another an inspired 1960s make-up and hair .
So hear are the final images from the day :
Thankyou for reading
bex 🙂

Making a fibreglass positive

Hi everyone this post will be all about the next step of fibreglass mould making. So for this post i will be taking the silicone off my plaster models and filling this with fibre glass to get a positive fiberglass mould of my models face which i will then go to sculpt my prosthetic onto . So here we go :

Products neede:

  • Fiber glass matting
  • Gel coat
  • Fiberglass matting
  • Plastic sheeting
  • Scissors
  • laminating fibreglass resin
  • paint brush
  • Tools to use to relive the silicone from the plaster mould


  • The first step is to realise the silicone and fiberglass topping from the plaster life cast .                                                                                     1 (2)1 (4)
  • Use a  wooden sculpting tool and  gently prized the two sections apart (be careful not to damage any part of the mould as this can affect the final product .  This can be time consuming and difficult as the two can suction together .
  • place the plaster live casts to one side to create more space for the next step.
  •  cover the work surface  with plastic as fiberglass will adhere to anything and not come off .
  • You need to fix the negative to a wooden board to make sure it does not move when applying the fibre glass to the inside. To do this you need to make tow sausage shapes of clay to the front and back of the negative .                                                                           1 (6)1 (10)
  • mixed up a half cup of gel coat to begin the fibreglass process. Same as before you need to  use the same ratio of catalyst and applied I layer all over the silicone inner. This will pick up the detail of the silicone giving us a perfect surface to sculpt on top of. Next  added a generous layer of fiberglass fibres on  top of the gel coat this adds extra strength to the mould .                              1 (19)

IMPORTANT INFORMATION : Never place the cups and brushes directly into the bin after use – Fibre glass heats up when it cures, meaning it is a fire hazard. It is best to let it cure in sight completely.

  • Before the gel coat dries  you can add colouring  to the gel coat to be a bit more creative . (For my mould i added a brass colouring so it would give my mould a metallic colouring when polished up ) .                                                                                                    1 (14)1 (18)
  • Once the gel coat is  applied  then leave  it to cure for around an hour. This will  allow the gel coat to cure but not become completely dry – leaving the surface slightly tacky ready for the next step.
  •  Cut 15-17pieces of  3inch square pieces of fibreglass matting ready for the next step .                                                                                     DSCF0183
  • Lay out a plastic sheet to protect the work area from fiberglass.                                                                                                                                 DSCF0184
  • Measure out half a cup of laminating fibreglass resin make sure to use a new cup to prevent cross contamination of products. Next add the catalyst to the resin using the same measurement as 2 from the last step and mix it thoroughly.                                      DSCF0175DSCF0179DSCF0180
  • Use a brush to paste a layer over the tacky surface of the gel coat this will help the next layer adhere. Then placed four pieces of the matting onto the plastic sheeting and soak  them with the resin.                                                                                                                   DSCF0185
  •  Once all four have been coated take the first square and place it into the cast over the surface of the painted layer of the resin. Past another coat over the top of the matting to make sure it is flat without any air bubbles. Also make sure each square overlapped slightly to make sure there is no  gaps where it could make the cast weaker .                                                                               DSCF0187DSCF0188DSCF0031
  • Leave it to it to dry for around 20 minutes until it goes a green colour you can then use a pair of scissors to cut off a excess fibre glass hanging off the mould edge .  If you do not do this and leave it too long the fiberglass will harden too much to cut and you will ned to use a grinder power tool to take off the sharp edges .                                                                                                                 DSCF0034
  • repeated the process  and add a second layer Then leave it to dry completely overnight.
  • Once dry  you can separate the silicone from the fibre glass using metal sculpting tools (Be patient and carful , you don’t want to damage your mould ) Once the two parts were separated we were left with the fiberglass positive! I was shocked to see how much detail the gel coat had picked up.                                                                                                                                                                                 DSCF0040
  • As i added a brass colouring to the gel coat i then buffed up the surface of  the cast using wire woo so i could see the metallic shine .                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     DSCF0045


At the beginning of this mould making process I didn’t really understand why we created the silicone part of the mould , but by doing this next step I now understand this process . I am a very visual learner and i need to do a process to fully understand it.  It also gave me a light weight positive to sculpt on , this will be  much easier than sculpting onto a heavy plaster positive . I am really pleased at how my positive has turned out and it has made me realise that you have to be very precise and carful with every step to achieve a good final mould.

Thank you for reading


Creative make-up and 1960 make-up photo shoot

Over the past few months i have been creating makeup  to build up my professional portfolio through working with different photographers . Hear is some  creative and 1960s looks created on a  photo shoot working with Georgian Preston owner of savannah rose digital imaging. Hear is a link to her site :



So hear are some pictures of the final edited images :

Making the fibreglass outer part of the silicone casing

Hi everyone  Here is the next step of making your  silicone inner and fiberglass moulds

So, once you had prepared the silicone inner for the mould you are now  ready to start the process of creating the fibre glass outer section of the mould. The reason you need to add a fiberglass outer is to support the silicone as it will not hold its shape through the next step..

Product needed and equipment needed  :

  • Gel coat
  • Fiberglass matting
  • Plastic sheeting
  • Scissors
  • laminating fibreglass resin
  • paint brush

Method :

kldjakd (1)

  • You need to start by removed the mod-roc and clay wall from around the edge of the cast. Then use paper towel to remove any moisture that may be onto  of the silicone the reason you must do this is If the silicone is damp or wet, the fibreglass would not cure.
  • Next  trim away any excess silicone around the edges of the silicone to create a clean edge. Depending on the surface you apply fibreglass to, a release agent may be needed as fibreglass adheres to pretty much anything however silicone is flexible and can easily peel away.                                                                                                                                                                                                              DSCF0171
  • When the silicone is ready you can move onto mixing the first stage of the fiberglass. So you need  to begin by measuring out half a cup of the gel coat.(this will be enough for two face casts .)                                                                                                                               DSCF0174DSCF0175
  • Next added a catalyst which will allow the gel coat to vulcanise.  Measurer on the bottle up to the 2 marker. Adding any more that this to  the gel coat will make the gel coat cure quicker  that we need it  and it will be a waste of product .                                       DSCF0178DSCF0179
  • Next  thoroughly mixed it together and applied a thick coating over the top of the silicone with a medium paint  brush.                 DSCF0181

IMPORTANT INFORMATION : Never place the cups and brushes directly into the bin after use –as it heats up when it cures, meaning it is a fire hazard. It is best to let it cure in sight completely before disposing in a safe manner.

  • Once the gel coat is applied leave it to cure for around an hour. This will allow the gel coat to cure but not become completely dry – leaving the surface slightly tacky ready for the next step.
  •  Next cut   15-20 3inch square pieces of fibreglass matting to prepare for the next step (any squares left over can be used for the next step ).                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    DSCF0191
  • You need to prepare a work space as fiberglass can become quite messy and it does not come off any surface when dry .  So laid out another piece of plastic sheeting onto the table to protect the surface. then laid out 4 pieces of the matting onto the plastic to preparation for the next step.                                                                                                                                                                                 DSCF0184
    •  measure out half a cup of laminating fibreglass resin using a new cup – to prevent cross contamination of products . Also added the catalyst to the resin using the same measurement of 2 again  then mixed it thoroughly.                                    DSCF0179
    • Then used a brush to paint a layer over the tacky surface of the gel coat this will help the next layer adhere.
    • Next used a brush to soak the 4 piece of matting you have laid out with resin. Once all four have been coated they will have absorbed the resin making it easier to mould to the shape of the silicone inner. Repeat this process till you have covered all the surface but make sure to overlap each piece. make sure there are no air bubbles .                                                DSCF0185 DSCF0188DSCF0189
    • Leave  the layer to  dry for around 20 minutes until it goes a green colour. To prevent using a grinder power tool you can use a pair of scissors to cut the edges of the fiberglass whilst it is still setting . Once it is set and solid this is not possible and you need to use a power tool.
    • repeated the process  adding a second layer. Then leave it to dry completely overnight

    So that this part of the process completed , I will blog about the next step next week

    Thank you  for reading

    Bex 🙂

Preparing an ear cast for silicone and fibreglass moulds

Hi everyone, so this blog post is all about preparing for fibreglass and silicone moulds . On this post i will specifically taking you through the process of bedding in an ear cast into water based clay . The reason we bed in an ear is to eliminate any undercuts where the future fiberglass mould could lock .

Products and tools needed :

  • Water based clay
  • Clay tools
  • Wooden board
  • Mod rock
  • Part A of silicone
  • Part B Silicone
  • Accelerator
  • Thixo

Method :

  • To eliminate any undercuts  you need to build up a  bed of clay around the ear cast. placing the ear cast onto a wooden board  and start building clay up around  each side of the cast.If you are un-sure about what an under cut is  take a look at the cast from a bird’s eye view – anything that you can’t see from this angle  needed to be filled in with clay.
  • When happy with the ear you have bedded in you need to next build up a clay wall . For extra strength wrap two layers of mod rock around the outside of the wall for strength                                                                                                                                                       5
  • Next  applied a light layer of Vaseline to the ear cast as silicone can adhere to plaster and the Vaseline acts as a relive agent .
  • You now need to mix up the first layer of silicone .You need to make  sure you  have  all the necessary materials and tools to do this.  You need to start by  zeroing the scales whilst the plastic bowl  is on  top to make sure you  get an accurate reading .The equation for silicone is:

–              Part A of silicone:100%

–              Part B Silicone:10%

–              Accelerator: 1%

For the size of the positive ear cast you will be covering you will need  to mix up 70 grams of part -A 7 grams part -B and 0.7 grams of accelerator to speed up the vulcanisation process.

  • Before mixing  make  sure that the tubs of silicone are  very close to the scales as it can drip really easily which can be difficult to clean up when not mixed as it stays in its liquid form. To avoid any drips whilst measuring out the silicone use a lolly pop stick  to scrape the excess silicone from the sides of the cups.
  • Start by measuring out parts A and B and then added the accelerator and mixed them together really well to ensure all the silicone will cure.
  • To avoid air bubbles during pouring  the silicone into the ear cast   it is always best to pour the silicone from a height as this eliminates some of  the air bubbles as it pours.                                                                                                                                                                   DSCF0113
  • Set the positive aside on a flat surface to allow the silicone to level out and cure this will take about 2hr as you have added an accelerator  to the silicone .
  • The next later of silicone is a  different consistency to the first as you need to  use  a different product – Thixo Additive. You need to  carried out the same process as the first layer however we mixed the Thixo at the very end. There was no precise measurement for this ingredient  the consistency needs to look and feel like  a  thick paste which I would be able to apply generously over the first layer of silicone. If the first layer is still a little tacky that doesn’t matter as it will help the next layer adhere better.  Once the past is  mixed you then need to use a new lolly pop stick to spread the mixture around                                 kldjakd (11)
  • then  leave it to cure for a further 2-3 hours.
  • Once the second later had cured, then added another liquid layer over the top same as the first layer this creates a smoother layer  over the second layer                                                                                                                                                                                                        The next step is creating a fiberglass cover for this silicone , I will be blogging about this next week so stay tune .

Thank for reading

bex 🙂