So over this next semester in media make-up i am building up a portfolio of makeup to the specific sector of makeup i want to work in . For me i am unsure so i am creating a broad portfolio including all my skills in makeup and hair . I am creating a specific section for hair and specifically hair through the eras . The eras i am including are
male Edwardian ( hand knotted moustache )
So for this post i am reflecting on my experiments of creating the 1920s finger wave . I researched the history of this and watches several on-line tutorials before even tempting this style . I did look very challenging but i wanted ton have a go at creating it . I decided to practice also on a hairdressing head so that i can spend my time on practising , as i am sure if i used someone they would properly get board after a few hours . i did find it very difficult to do this style and i have practices over several lessons and in my spare time so far and i am slowly getting the hand of it . But i am finding it very difficult to get to grips with this style . hear are a few images of my practice rounds . I have realised i will need to practice this alto more before i attempt to include it i my portfolio.
I was so excited for the work experience as period drama is what love to watch, and hopefully its where my careerer will lead me in the future. As I watched the first series last year on channel four i already knew what story behind the mill was , but i also did a bit more research just to be fully preprepared for the day . So on the day i had to be there for 6:30am as this is when the cast start in makeup ready to be on set for 7:30 so it was a really early start . As this was my first day ever on set of a tv production i helped sort paper work out for the characters continuity , make drinks for everyone , cleaned up the work stations and brushes ready to be used next time . helped carry equipment and general extra pair of hands around the makeup truck . I was just happy to be there and experience the team at work and see what happens . I was also fortunate enough to help out with dirtying down the background cast , whenever they needed touch ups on set . As it is based in a cotton mill certain scenes also needed the cast to have cotton dust in there hair so i helped do this and remove it . So i was really happy that i was able to help out with the makeup . I learnt so much in just one day and by the end of it all i was on such a high ,so hear are some pointers that i learnt from this experience :
How to act around the cast
How to read a call sheet
protocol and hierarchy of the makeup department and full crew
how to maintain continuity
There was so much to learn about been on set it was very overwhelming but i really enjoyed my time on the mill . For me it has confirmed that television make-up is where i want to my career to be . I also learnt i really need to learn how to drive soon as i need to be able to get to any location at any time , as i needed to be on set at 6;30am it was really hard to get there by public transport .Also by talking to the makeup artists on set i have learnt i really need to take a course in hair dressing as jobs in this industry require you to have both hair and makeup skills . So i have alto to learn off of set too . Over all i think i did well for my first day on set and i have been asked back by the makeup department for a few extra day to help out so i am so happy that i can go back and learn some more .
Hi everyone so hear is the last stage of the ,mould making before we can start running it in foam latex and then platinum silicone .
Once the sculpt is protected with several layers of releasing agent you can start the final fiberglass process
Begin by laying out some plastic sheeting to protect your work area .
Next cut up 10-15 small squares of fibre glass tissue in preparation for the next step
Mix up half a cup of gel coat with two measures of catalyst (catalyst is added to speed up the vulcanisation process ).
Once mixed thoroughly paint the gel coat over the sculpt make sure you cover all the sculpt to pick up all the detail .
Then wait for it to cure until it is tacky to touch it will take from 1hr-2hr depending on the temperature of the room
The next step is to apply a coat of laminating resin over the cured gel coat. This will allow the fibreglass tissue to adhere to the gel coat and prevent any separation of the two layers . Then coat each square of fibre glass tissue with resin and apply it over the gel coat . Make sure you overlap each square to strengthen the layer .
As always leave it for 20 minutes and cut any sharp edges around the mould .
After this layer is dry (wait 1hr between layers) repeat the process twice again but with fiberglass matting .
The next step is to drill holes through both parts of the mould to allow washers and screws to be used as a way of closing and clamping the mould shut. This is important as the mould needs to be tightly closed to ensure the edges set thin . Make sure you don’t drill the holes through the keys in the mould .
After the holes are drilled the mould can then be separated and clean . Be patient as carefully when opening the mould as you don’t want to damage anything .
Now clean out the Plasterline from the mould in preparation for running foam latex . I also use lighter fluid to further clean the mould as this dissolves the Plasterline easily.
Thanks for reading
As I have had quite a lot of practice with fiberglass I now feel confident enough with this process.. Overall I am very happy with quality of the moulds i have created . But i will really see how good they are when we start running them for foam latex .
Hi everyone i though i would just update you all on a make-up work experience/job i did this week at Wakefield collage for the photographer Catherine Brown . Hear is a link to her professional Facebook page if you want to have a look at her work and style of photography :
So for this shoot I was creating a make-up look based around the 1950s and the vintage look and style . I really enjoyed this soot as it just felt fun and light hearted. So hear are some final images from the shoot :
Hi everyone so now i have got my fibreglass positive is it ready to start sculpting , so its time to start getting creative . So i have drawn up some designs for my prosthetic so now it time to … Continue reading →
So over the past few months I have been working towards building a professional portfolio and to do this i have been trying to collaborate with newmourouse photographers on different projects . One of the photographers i have collaborated with is Georgian Preston the owner of savannah rose digital imagery and retouching. She is a really good photographer and retoucher so I was really happy to work with her she also has edited my final images really well so I a happy from the results from the shoot . She is really professional and easy to work with so if you want to look at her other work or contact her hear is a link to her professional Facebook page :
I learnt alto from this shoot about lighting and composition of a studio set up I was truly enlightened. I leant how different back drops can effect lighting and how positioning a light that reflects off the back drop gives the photo some dimension . Everything i learnt from this shoot can be transferable into my own photography when I take pictures of my make-up looks and experiments . Hear are some pictures from behind the scenes of the shoot :
On this work experience/job I was working on two photo shoots for the day one been a creative look and another an inspired 1960s make-up and hair .
So hear are the final images from the day :
Thankyou for reading
Hi everyone this post will be all about the next step of fibreglass mould making. So for this post i will be taking the silicone off my plaster models and filling this with fibre glass to get a positive fiberglass mould of my models face which i will then go to sculpt my prosthetic onto . So here we go :
Fiber glass matting
laminating fibreglass resin
Tools to use to relive the silicone from the plaster mould
The first step is to realise the silicone and fiberglass topping from the plaster life cast .
Use a wooden sculpting tool and gently prized the two sections apart (be careful not to damage any part of the mould as this can affect the final product . This can be time consuming and difficult as the two can suction together .
place the plaster live casts to one side to create more space for the next step.
cover the work surface with plastic as fiberglass will adhere to anything and not come off .
You need to fix the negative to a wooden board to make sure it does not move when applying the fibre glass to the inside. To do this you need to make tow sausage shapes of clay to the front and back of the negative .
mixed up a half cup of gel coat to begin the fibreglass process. Same as before you need to use the same ratio of catalyst and applied I layer all over the silicone inner. This will pick up the detail of the silicone giving us a perfect surface to sculpt on top of. Next added a generous layer of fiberglass fibres on top of the gel coat this adds extra strength to the mould .
IMPORTANT INFORMATION : Never place the cups and brushes directly into the bin after use – Fibre glass heats up when it cures, meaning it is a fire hazard. It is best to let it cure in sight completely.
Before the gel coat dries you can add colouring to the gel coat to be a bit more creative . (For my mould i added a brass colouring so it would give my mould a metallic colouring when polished up ) .
Once the gel coat is applied then leave it to cure for around an hour. This will allow the gel coat to cure but not become completely dry – leaving the surface slightly tacky ready for the next step.
Cut 15-17pieces of 3inch square pieces of fibreglass matting ready for the next step .
Lay out a plastic sheet to protect the work area from fiberglass.
Measure out half a cup of laminating fibreglass resin make sure to use a new cup to prevent cross contamination of products. Next add the catalyst to the resin using the same measurement as 2 from the last step and mix it thoroughly.
Use a brush to paste a layer over the tacky surface of the gel coat this will help the next layer adhere. Then placed four pieces of the matting onto the plastic sheeting and soak them with the resin.
Once all four have been coated take the first square and place it into the cast over the surface of the painted layer of the resin. Past another coat over the top of the matting to make sure it is flat without any air bubbles. Also make sure each square overlapped slightly to make sure there is no gaps where it could make the cast weaker .
Leave it to it to dry for around 20 minutes until it goes a green colour you can then use a pair of scissors to cut off a excess fibre glass hanging off the mould edge . If you do not do this and leave it too long the fiberglass will harden too much to cut and you will ned to use a grinder power tool to take off the sharp edges .
repeated the process and add a second layer Then leave it to dry completely overnight.
Once dry you can separate the silicone from the fibre glass using metal sculpting tools (Be patient and carful , you don’t want to damage your mould ) Once the two parts were separated we were left with the fiberglass positive! I was shocked to see how much detail the gel coat had picked up.
As i added a brass colouring to the gel coat i then buffed up the surface of the cast using wire woo so i could see the metallic shine .
At the beginning of this mould making process I didn’t really understand why we created the silicone part of the mould , but by doing this next step I now understand this process . I am a very visual learner and i need to do a process to fully understand it. It also gave me a light weight positive to sculpt on , this will be much easier than sculpting onto a heavy plaster positive . I am really pleased at how my positive has turned out and it has made me realise that you have to be very precise and carful with every step to achieve a good final mould.
Over the past few months i have been creating makeup to build up my professional portfolio through working with different photographers . Hear is some creative and 1960s looks created on a photo shoot working with Georgian Preston owner of savannah rose digital imaging. Hear is a link to her site :
Hi everyone Here is the next step of making your silicone inner and fiberglass moulds
So, once you had prepared the silicone inner for the mould you are now ready to start the process of creating the fibre glass outer section of the mould. The reason you need to add a fiberglass outer is to support the silicone as it will not hold its shape through the next step..
Product needed and equipment needed :
laminating fibreglass resin
You need to start by removed the mod-roc and clay wall from around the edge of the cast. Then use paper towel to remove any moisture that may be onto of the silicone the reason you must do this is If the silicone is damp or wet, the fibreglass would not cure.
Next trim away any excess silicone around the edges of the silicone to create a clean edge. Depending on the surface you apply fibreglass to, a release agent may be needed as fibreglass adheres to pretty much anything however silicone is flexible and can easily peel away.
When the silicone is ready you can move onto mixing the first stage of the fiberglass. So you need to begin by measuring out half a cup of the gel coat.(this will be enough for two face casts .)
Next added a catalyst which will allow the gel coat to vulcanise. Measurer on the bottle up to the 2 marker. Adding any more that this to the gel coat will make the gel coat cure quicker that we need it and it will be a waste of product .
Next thoroughly mixed it together and applied a thick coating over the top of the silicone with a medium paint brush.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION : Never place the cups and brushes directly into the bin after use –as it heats up when it cures, meaning it is a fire hazard. It is best to let it cure in sight completely before disposing in a safe manner.
Once the gel coat is applied leave it to cure for around an hour. This will allow the gel coat to cure but not become completely dry – leaving the surface slightly tacky ready for the next step.
Next cut 15-20 3inch square pieces of fibreglass matting to prepare for the next step (any squares left over can be used for the next step ).
You need to prepare a work space as fiberglass can become quite messy and it does not come off any surface when dry . So laid out another piece of plastic sheeting onto the table to protect the surface. then laid out 4 pieces of the matting onto the plastic to preparation for the next step.
measure out half a cup of laminating fibreglass resin using a new cup – to prevent cross contamination of products . Also added the catalyst to the resin using the same measurement of 2 again then mixed it thoroughly.
Then used a brush to paint a layer over the tacky surface of the gel coat this will help the next layer adhere.
Next used a brush to soak the 4 piece of matting you have laid out with resin. Once all four have been coated they will have absorbed the resin making it easier to mould to the shape of the silicone inner. Repeat this process till you have covered all the surface but make sure to overlap each piece. make sure there are no air bubbles .
Leave the layer to dry for around 20 minutes until it goes a green colour. To prevent using a grinder power tool you can use a pair of scissors to cut the edges of the fiberglass whilst it is still setting . Once it is set and solid this is not possible and you need to use a power tool.
repeated the process adding a second layer. Then leave it to dry completely overnight
So that this part of the process completed , I will blog about the next step next week
Hi everyone, so this blog post is all about preparing for fibreglass and silicone moulds . On this post i will specifically taking you through the process of bedding in an ear cast into water based clay . The reason we bed in an ear is to eliminate any undercuts where the future fiberglass mould could lock .
Products and tools needed :
Water based clay
Part A of silicone
Part B Silicone
To eliminate any undercuts you need to build up a bed of clay around the ear cast. placing the ear cast onto a wooden board and start building clay up around each side of the cast.If you are un-sure about what an under cut is take a look at the cast from a bird’s eye view – anything that you can’t see from this angle needed to be filled in with clay.
When happy with the ear you have bedded in you need to next build up a clay wall . For extra strength wrap two layers of mod rock around the outside of the wall for strength
Next applied a light layer of Vaseline to the ear cast as silicone can adhere to plaster and the Vaseline acts as a relive agent .
You now need to mix up the first layer of silicone .You need to make sure you have all the necessary materials and tools to do this. You need to start by zeroing the scales whilst the plastic bowl is on top to make sure you get an accurate reading .The equation for silicone is:
– Part A of silicone:100%
– Part B Silicone:10%
– Accelerator: 1%
For the size of the positive ear cast you will be covering you will need to mix up 70 grams of part -A 7 grams part -B and 0.7 grams of accelerator to speed up the vulcanisation process.
Before mixing make sure that the tubs of silicone are very close to the scales as it can drip really easily which can be difficult to clean up when not mixed as it stays in its liquid form. To avoid any drips whilst measuring out the silicone use a lolly pop stick to scrape the excess silicone from the sides of the cups.
Start by measuring out parts A and B and then added the accelerator and mixed them together really well to ensure all the silicone will cure.
To avoid air bubbles during pouring the silicone into the ear cast it is always best to pour the silicone from a height as this eliminates some of the air bubbles as it pours.
Set the positive aside on a flat surface to allow the silicone to level out and cure this will take about 2hr as you have added an accelerator to the silicone .
The next later of silicone is a different consistency to the first as you need to use a different product – Thixo Additive. You need to carried out the same process as the first layer however we mixed the Thixo at the very end. There was no precise measurement for this ingredient the consistency needs to look and feel like a thick paste which I would be able to apply generously over the first layer of silicone. If the first layer is still a little tacky that doesn’t matter as it will help the next layer adhere better. Once the past is mixed you then need to use a new lolly pop stick to spread the mixture around
then leave it to cure for a further 2-3 hours.
Once the second later had cured, then added another liquid layer over the top same as the first layer this creates a smoother layer over the second layer The next step is creating a fiberglass cover for this silicone , I will be blogging about this next week so stay tune .